Another season of fashion weeks have been and gone in a flurry of blurred catwalk Instagram posts, weather-inappropriate outfits and lots of great hair. We’re not ones to be dictated by trends - but show season is a great excuse to assess the current (and future) mood of things when it comes to hair and beauty. Our creative director Sky Cripps-Jackson sets off on her travels around this time, working backstage creating hair looks for shows in London, New York, Paris and Milan.
Since she’s been back and has had a well-deserved rest, we’ve joint forces and shared our thoughts on the hair mood of Spring/Summer 2017. It seemed that hair shimmied further to the forefront this season, making a statement in its own right and not being overshadowed by the clothes. From chin-skimming bobs to hacked-in fringes, we’re here along with Sky’s insider knowledge to tell you all you need to know about hair circa SS17.
Far from neat and one-length, fringes on the whole went off the rails for SS17 - we’re talking chopped in, curled up and tonged in every direction. Harking back to Angelina Jolie in Girl, Interrupted, there was a certain rip-up-the-rulebook attitude when it came to fringes. At Rochas, the doll-like fringes were clipped in and purposefully rolled and set in opposite directions, somewhere in between a rebellious bedhead and your 80-year old nan after a trip under the hooded hair dryer.
Rodarte revelled in brow-skimming, uneven lengths and things got even more scissor-happy at Gucci where one fringe was completely lopped off on a sideways angle. Perhaps not one for the faint-hearted.
With everyone seemingly taking the chop, it’s easy to forget the beauty and simplicity a poker-straight, one-length fringe offers. Enter JW Anderson and his short, razor-sharp fringe. Like a breath of fresh air, this modern yet timeless style is one we’ll never grow bored of.
“Fringes have always had a presence on and off the runway. My favourite variations were seen at the likes of Gucci and Rochas with an almost Victorian porcelain doll finish. To recreate this look, get a very small tong on 2-3 sections in imperfect directions. Spritz with hairspray - I like O&M’s Original Queenie - and mould with your fingers and a hair dryer, alternating between hot and cold.
Versus Versace also gave a cooler, choppier variation of a grown-out fringe with a dry textured finish. Spritz through O&M’s Surf Bomb Sea Salt Spray and work in with your fingers. For more texture, add some dry shampoo (try Organic Colour Systems’ natural, no-clumping dry shampoo) and rub it with a towel for extra static-ness.”
Graphic Shapes + Electric Bobs
Forget anything shoulder-skimming or so-so, bobs this season came with exclamation marks and warning signs. At Prada, seven of the models who turned up to walk (some with waist-length hair) had their hair taken chin length, in a blunt bob that flicked behind the ears in Margot Tenenbaum fashion. Apparently the models were so keen to embrace the ‘Prada girl’ look that they were more than happy to sacrifice their grown out tresses. Continuing from the importance of the buzzcut last season (think Ruth Bell walking for Gucci), this daredevil attitude carried on and pushed the haircut into equal limelight with the clothes.
Jeremy Scott’s pageboy wigs with a slick of electric blue eyeshadow were the epitome of retro appeal. We’ve mused on our love of the pudding bowl cut before and Scott did the style justice - gently curling inwards and looking smooth and glossy.
“It’s all in the length and colour of the bob. Moschino referenced a more classic 50’s glamour achieved with a small tong and plenty of hairspray, lightly brushed out for shape and hold. Jeremy Scott had an almost trashy pageboy with acid wash colours (just when you thought natural had nudged it’s way back in) and Prada spoke to a sophisticated, effortless beauty. Either way, they all had blunt edges and seamless layering, if any. Speak to your stylist to ensure you manage expectations on how you would like to look and your daily hair routine.
Something that may be helpful for people a little more nervous about taking the waist to chin plunge, is that for many of those girls who’s hair got chopped off, it can totally make their career and help them stand out in an ocean of long natural hair. It can be really empowering just going for a complete restyle.”
When it all gets too fussy, sometimes a gel-heavy slicked back look is all that’s needed to make things feel current and simplistic. Designers such as Alexander McQueen used this minimalist look to contrast the flounce and flourish of the clothes and accessories. The model’s hair was wet-look and combed back and to the sides to create a style that completely exposed the face.
Christopher Kane opted for equally as flat, slicked back hair. Side parted and with a few gelled-down, separated baby hairs, this again made way for a collection heavy on embellishment, ruffles and lace.
“This was a popular look seen at the likes of Missoni, Kenzo, Givenchy, McQueen, Christopher Kane and Sportmax. Off-duty yoga mat, high-fashion hairstyles have been seen around for a while but this season saw a resurgence of hair gelled-back off the face. Whether it’s parted in the centre, worn low to the side or sitting naturally in the middle, anything goes. To achieve this kind of style, apply gel or a styling product such as Organic Colour System’s Control Shine to slightly damp hair. Take the hair in sections and pat the product on the roots, combing immediately. Then spritz with hairspray and dry on a medium heat at low speed. That way it will help the product to set and still retain the wetness.”
Natural Texture + Glossy Condition
We know that fashion season wouldn’t be fashion season without an abundance of natural texture, loose waves and girl next-door hair. Well, things were no different this time around - however the focus on condition (think healthiness, bounce and gloss) was unavoidable. Tommy Hilfiger’s girls had an all-American vibe and the diversity of models meant that hair went from Hollywood waves to afro curls and Scandi ice whites in one fail swoop. We approve.
Nevertheless, this was about hair that’s cared for and well looked after - arguably the most universally sought-after style and reminiscent of Liv Tyler’s 90’s ‘do. Condition is our number one priority at Glasshouse so it’s great to spot this on almost every catwalk this season.
“From Marni to Vera Wang, this kind of look is covered time and time again. Whatever way you look at it, it’s about the subtleties of the finish. Wind blown pieces across the face is super sultry and adds an element of mystery. However when you’re sat in front of the computer it can just be plain impractical…
To me, what differed this season is that hair was even more lush and conditioned. Generally speaking, it was more polished - natural hair followed suit and the importance of hair being in optimal condition was ever-present. Make sure your hair is in tip top condition by starting with the base - use a great sulphate-free shampoo like Organic Colour Systems’ Power Build and do one of their once weekly treatments. Try and avoid heated tools and dry shampoo never goes amiss in creating airy, natural texture.”
So, there you have it - SS17 hair in a bitesize nutshell, with a few DIY tips along the way. Whether you decide to chop into that fringe or keep things smooth and natural, next season has a hairdo for everyone.
Words: Lucy Vincent and Sky Cripps-Jackson
Cover image: JW Anderson